Trying Kogin on Aida Fabric
◆Trying Kogin on Aida Fabric
Hello! Are you enjoying kogin today? I heard that the first snow has fallen in Aomori, Japan. Kogin season is finally here! Today, I'd like to share my experience of trying kogin on Aida fabric for the first time.
Since I'd never stitched kogin on Aida before, these are just my first impressions. So please don't trust my opinions too much! I'd like to keep experimenting with Aida from time to time. If I discover more tips, I'll share them with you!
First, let's compare Aida, which has a block weave, with the plain-weave fabric commonly used for kogin. Let's zoom in really close!
*Close-up of Aida fabric*
*Close-up of linen fabric for kogin*
Even though I'm not an expert in weaving, I can clearly see the difference! The two fabrics have different weaves, but both have holes arranged in a grid, so it looks like we can enjoy kogin on Aida, too.
Luckily, some people had already shared photos of their finished kogin projects on Aida with me. Others told me that they had tried Aida but preferred plain-weave fabric. Thanks to them, I already knew that kogin could be stitched on Aida.
I learned that Aida is mainly used for cross-stitch. I've never tried cross-stitch myself, but as the name suggests, the thread crosses between the holes to make X-shaped stitches. The fabric between the holes has a relatively flat surface, so I can imagine how the thread sits on top when making cross-stitches.
◆Materials I Used
For this experiment, I wanted to use fabric and thread that are easy to find outside Japan, so I chose embroidery materials available internationally.
Fabric: Charles Craft 18-count Aida
Thread: DMC Perle Cotton, size 5
Needle: Cross-stitch needle (I chose a needle with a thickness suitable for the fabric holes.)
◆My First Impressions of the Fabric and Stitching
My first impression when I touched the fabric was: "Stiff! Thin! Light!"
I've learned that Aida can have different levels of stiffness depending on the brand, where it's made, and the particular product. So this impression is only about the fabric I used. But I was really surprised! It reminded me how important it is to actually touch and try materials for myself.
The woven threads were held firmly in place, and I honestly wondered how I would make several stitches before pulling the needle through. But I decided to give it a try!
(By the way, I also noticed that the fabric gradually became a little softer as I kept touching and handling it.)
*Making several stitches before pulling the needle through on Aida straight from the package*
When I first started stitching, I found that making one stitch at a time, moving the needle up and down through the fabric, worked without any real problems, although the fabric felt stiff.
So, "can you enjoy kogin on Aida?" My answer is "YES!"
However, when I tried making several stitches before pulling the needle through, I had a different experience. The fabric was stiff. My fingers hurt. It was difficult to pull the needle through, and I found myself using too much force. At that point, I wasn't ready to say YES to this way of stitching.
First, I checked my needle, but the thickness seemed fine. Then I wondered if the stiffness of the fabric was the problem, so I decided to wash it in warm water to see if that would help. I usually find that fabric with a little stiffness is easier to stitch on. I've even added starch to fabric before, but I'd never washed fabric before starting kogin.
The washing process was very simple. I gently rubbed the surface of the fabric in warm water for about 10–20 seconds, then laid it flat to dry. Some people told me that softer Aida fabrics are also available, so this isn't something everyone needs to do. But if your fabric feels too stiff, you might try washing a small piece to see how it changes.
The result was a great success! Even just touching the fabric, I could feel that it had become softer and more flexible. Now I can say a big YES to the question, "Can you enjoy kogin on Aida while making several stitches before pulling the needle through?" I still find pulling the needle through a little difficult, but making fewer stitches at a time worked fine.
Another thing I noticed is that it seems easier to avoid stitching mistakes on Aida. Perhaps this is because the woven threads don't shift much and the holes stay in place. That seems to be one of the advantages of Aida.
*Comparing Aida straight from the package(←) and Aida washed in warm water(→)*
◆A Tip for Making Several Stitches at Once
I also tried to find a more comfortable way to stitch on Aida without washing it. I discovered that instead of pushing the needle through each hole, it was much easier to use my other hand to guide the fabric holes toward the needle. This made a big difference! I usually adjust the way I stitch depending on the fabric I'm using, and Aida was no different.
◆How the Finished Kogin Looks
Of course, the appearance of kogin changes depending on the fabric count, thread, and other materials. But even considering those differences, I felt that kogin patterns stand out more clearly on Aida.
It's a little difficult to explain, but when I stitch on Aida, I feel like the thread sits on the surface of the fabric. It almost feels like the thread is wrapping around the fabric, with the fabric in the background and the thread playing the main role.
On the plain-weave fabrics I usually use for kogin, I have a different feeling. The thread seems to travel between the woven threads of the fabric, almost like going through a tunnel. Someone once commented on one of my kogin videos that it looked like I was weaving. I think that description matches this feeling. Both the fabric threads and the kogin thread seem to play an important role. They work together, almost as if they are creating one new fabric.
I think it would be really fun to choose different fabrics depending on the look we want to create! I feel that the back of the stitching shows this difference better than my words can, so I've included photos here.
*Back of kogin stitched on Aida*
*Back of kogin stitched on plain-weave fabric*
◆So, Can You Enjoy Kogin on Aida?
Yes, you can!
As I mentioned at the beginning, this was my first time using Aida, and I've only tried one type. I haven't experimented with different counts or brands yet, so I'm not ready to recommend Aida with confidence. But if you already have Aida and a suitable needle and thread, I hope you'll give kogin a try!
If plain-weave fabric is easy to find where you live, I'd also encourage you to try that. I'd love for you to stitch the same pattern on different fabrics and enjoy seeing the differences.
Traditionally, kogin was used to strengthen fabric and make clothing warmer with the limited materials people had available. Today, people enjoy kogin in many different parts of the world, but traditional kogin materials are not always easy to find. Personally, I think it's important to enjoy kogin using materials that are available to us, even when our choices are limited.
◆My Appreciation for Japanese Kogin Fabric
Trying kogin on Aida for the first time also gave me an opportunity to think about the fabrics I usually use. I often receive comments on my kogin posts asking, "Where can I find this fabric?" Most of the fabrics people ask about are made in Japan specifically for kogin. These questions remind me that the fabrics I use every day may look very special to people who have never seen them before.
Behind these fabrics are people who have spent time researching and developing them, companies that produce them, and weavers who make them. Thanks to all these people, we can enjoy stitching on these beautiful fabrics today.
I hope my kogin friends around the world will have a chance to try Japanese kogin fabric someday. I'd love to hear what you think of it!
◆Final Thoughts
The reason I started this experiment was that I had received so many questions from people outside Japan who were interested in kogin. What finally encouraged me to try Aida was hearing from someone who said something like:
"I've started kogin, but it's difficult to find kogin fabric where I live. Aida is affordable and easy to buy."
I thought that if my experiment could help someone take their first step into kogin, even just a little, it would be worth trying. No matter how someone discovers kogin or what materials they start with, I believe that as they become more interested in it, they may naturally become curious about its history and background.
And I think that the more we learn about kogin and the more we stitch, the more deeply we understand its beauty and history. Through that experience, we may also develop a greater appreciation and respect for traditional kogin and its patterns.
I'll continue enjoying kogin on Aida from time to time, and if I discover anything else worth sharing, I'll let you know!
Top: Zweigart 20-count linen
Middle: 18-count Aida used in this experiment
Bottom: Zweigart 25-count linen
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