Learning about cloth and thread 15 (Kogin Dwell)

◆Learning about cloth and thread 15 (Kogin Dwell)
This is the 5th photo of cloth research, this time it's Kogin Duel . So far, this has appeared in the kit the most times, and it's a cloth that I'm used to stitching, but when I looked into it again, I found a lot of things that made sense.
*Alphabets in the fabric name and numbers in the thread name are changed for convenience.

◆Kogin Duel basic information
⚪︎Material Hemp

⚪︎Number of stitches per 1㎠ (vertical: horizontal) 7:9
⚪︎Purchase store: Tsugaru Kobosha, Shimaya
⚪︎Purchase date: Around 2022 (described considering the possibility of differences depending on the lot)
⚪︎Please contact the manufacturer for product information such as available colors and prices.

(At a glance, the cloth looks like this.)

◆Impressions of Kogin Duel (according to Satonobo research)
⚪︎Contains a lot of glue▶️Seems to go well with threads with a strong core (not delicate threads)

⚪︎The entire cloth moves on the surface▶️ It seems important to have a strong thread
⚪︎There is a possibility of breaking the warp threads of the cloth ▶️It seems more important to be aware of lifting the warp threads than to be aware of inserting the needle into the hole in the fabric (I imagine raising a noren curtain and saying, "Excuse me...?")

Below is a photo taken with a macro lens. You can see that the holes in the fabric are vertical. In addition, since there are few loose threads, it is easy for beginners to grasp the texture, and since Kogin Dwell began being sold, it has been used in various kits. However, until you get used to it, you may break the warp threads, so we recommend that you handle it carefully until you get the feel of the fabric.

(Second from the right, can you feel the crispness of the duel warp?)

I like both of the two fabrics below. I think you can get a completely different impression from the photos. It would be great if you could have fun choosing different fabrics and threads depending on the piece you want to express.

◆I want to try Kogin Duel again! Recommended yarn from Satonobo
 This is my impression of using the same kogin needle with needle movement. Please understand that my skill level will affect the appearance and impressions.

⚪︎5. Tsugaru Kogin thread from Tsugaru Kobosha
Stitching comfort : Thread passes smoothly
Appearance : Delicate yet cored threads give a gentle feel that does not lose to the tension of the fabric.
Impressions: Although the kogin thread is soft, the core is strong, so the thread does not easily fall apart, so you can enjoy smooth needle movement.

⚪︎6.1chi® Kogin thread
Stinging feeling : You may feel some friction, but it is comfortable and gives you a sense of security.
Appearance : Fluffy and cute, with no messy threads.
Impressions : Highly recommended for both the feel and appearance.

⚪︎8.Handwork fan hand-dyed kogin thread
Stab feeling : Smooth with a moderate amount of friction
Appearance : Just like the texture of the thread used by handwork fans
Thoughts : This thread goes well with any fabric, and you can feel that this time as well.

⚪︎9.koginbank Kogin thread stitching comfort : Comfortable
Appearance : Koginbank's yarn-like style is expressed as is.
Thoughts : Please give it a try. The sting feels good.

⚪︎Other thoughts
I thought it was a fabric that didn't have much choice in threads. However, with my technique, I wonder if it would be difficult for the loosely twisted threads such as Olimpas, Daruma, and Matalbon to have a stable place. That was my impression. (Olimpas and Matalbon were used without pulling them together.) On the other hand, the highly twisted threads seemed to work together with the uniqueness of the fabric, which was interesting.

Kit that you can enjoy with Kogin Duel
▶️Kogin embroidery kit 6 (Kogin thread is for fans of handwork)
▶️Kogin embroidery kit 7 (Kogin thread is for fans of handwork)
▶️Kogin embroidery kit 8 (Kogin thread is for fans of handwork)
▶️Kogin embroidery kit 9 ​​(Kogin thread is for fans of handwork)
▶️Kogin embroidery kit 10 (Kogin thread is indigo dyed thread or handwork fans)
▶️Book cover 1 (Koginito Hatsukiya or handwork fan)
▶️ Helmet decoration (Kogin thread is Tsugaru Kogin thread)
▶️Carp streamer 2 (Kogin thread is a handiwork fan)
️Bouquet (Kogin thread is a fan of handwork)

◆Next fabric will be Olympas linen


I was able to proceed with this while I was back home in Aomori, so I think I'll be able to write about it on my blog soon.

▶️Materials research blog


◆About the compatibility of cloth and thread
As I touched on in Understanding Cloth and Thread 3 , sensibilities vary from person to person, and of course, preferences also vary from person to person. Regarding compatibility, I am writing this with the intention of conveying that the stitching comfort varies depending on the combination of cloth and thread. One of the reasons for conducting this survey is that I feel that it is a waste to distance yourself from a cloth or thread based on your first impression. The purpose of the survey is to learn about the positives, not the negatives.

◆Regarding the survey content
This information is for those who enjoy Koginzashi on their own, and was researched by Satonobo using materials he kept at home. Please note that depending on the storage environment, there may be a discrepancy in the count or weight of the fabric you have. Also, unauthorized use of photos is prohibited. I hope you have a fun Kogin time.