Learning about cloth and thread 17 (New Congress)

◆Learning about cloth and thread 17 (New Congress)
This is my first materials research blog in half a year. This is the 7th piece of fabric research, moving into the cotton fabric category, starting with New Congress . New Congress is a light fabric within the cotton fabric category. When I first used it, I remember thinking, "It looks like linen!" It's been a while, so please check out the list of research cloth photos.
*It rains a lot in Bellevue in winter, so the photos are dark. I plan to change it to something better once I can retake it.
*Alphabets in the fabric name and numbers in the thread name are changed for convenience.

◆New Congress basic information
⚪︎Material Cotton

⚪︎Number of stitches per 1㎠ (vertical: horizontal) 7:8
⚪︎Purchase store: Tsukiya Hirosaki
⚪︎Purchase period: Around 2020-2021 (described considering the possibility of differences depending on the lot)
⚪︎Please contact the store for product information such as available colors and prices.

(It looks like this kind of cloth. It seems light.)

◆Impressions of the New Congress (according to Satonobo research)
⚪︎The tension of the weaving thread is weak and the weaving thread moves▶️It gives the impression that it is difficult to balance with thick threads and loosely twisted threads, but it seems to go well with smooth, strong threads and tight kogin threads.
⚪︎Sheer▶️The feeling of the thread crossing is visible, so when stitching parts, it is important to be aware of the thread, lining fabric, adhesive interlining, etc. as a whole.

Below is a photo taken with a macro lens. Compared to Olympus linen, there is a difference in the smooth threads on the surface, but when you actually sew it on, you can hardly feel any friction. There seems to be a difference between linen and cotton materials in the effect that the paya paya thread on the surface has on the slippage of the kogin thread.
The holes in the cloth are easy to see, making it recommended for beginners . However, as summarized above, if you sew with a loose thread that contains air, such as Olympas's Kogin thread or Echizenya's embroidery thread Matalbon, the Kogin thread will not be crisp, so even if you thread it, the thread will not be in the right position. may not feel refreshed. I think it is possible to create works that take advantage of this condition, but from the standpoint of stitching comfort, I personally recommend tight kogin thread.
Also, since the thread is thin, the needle doesn't break the thread, and the thread moves, making it easier to thread. Also, because it is flexible, it was easy to move the hands.

◆I want to try New Congress again! Recommended yarn from Satonobo
 This is my impression of using the same kogin needle with needle movement. Please understand that my skill level will affect the appearance and impressions.

⚪︎1. Tsukiya Kogin thread (8 pieces)
Stitching comfort : Thread passes smoothly
Appearance : Beautiful and highlights the advantages of kogin thread
Impressions: Perfect feeling and appearance.

⚪︎5. Tsugaru Kogin thread from Tsugaru Kobosha
Stitching comfort : The strength of the twist matches the cloth, making it easy to handle.
Appearance : An impression that adds a casual touch to the elegance of Tsugaru Kogin thread.
Impressions : Recommended for both the feel and appearance.

⚪︎8.Handwork fan hand-dyed kogin thread
Stitching comfort : The thread slides comfortably
Appearance : Just like the casual thread texture of handwork fans
Impressions : I felt the stability of the handiwork fan's kogin thread here as well.

⚪︎Other thoughts
If you like Olympus linen, I think you'll like this fabric as well. However, Olympas linen is characterized by the thinness of its threads, and I felt that the threads of Tsukiyano Kogin thread (8 threads) were thinner, so I felt that even though they were similar, there were differences. (New Congress and Tsukiyakogin thread (8 threads) seem to go well together.)
It's flexible and easy to move, so if you use a thread that goes well with it, you'll have even more fun kogin time. It is also recommended for works that take advantage of the lightness and thinness of cloth, such as pin cushions.

(I felt like Matalbon was laying on my butt)

Kit you can enjoy at New Congress
▶️We don't currently have it, so we'll let you know when it's created.

◆The next cloth will be Kensen's Congress

▶️Materials research blog


◆About the compatibility of cloth and thread
As I touched on in Understanding Cloth and Thread 3 , sensibilities vary from person to person, and of course, preferences also vary from person to person. Regarding compatibility, I am writing this with the intention of conveying that the stitching comfort varies depending on the combination of cloth and thread. One of the reasons for conducting this survey is that I feel that it is a waste to distance yourself from a cloth or thread based on your first impression. The purpose of the survey is to learn about the positives, not the negatives.

◆Regarding the survey content
This information is for those who enjoy Koginzashi on their own, and was researched by Satonobo using materials he kept at home. Please note that depending on the storage environment, there may be a discrepancy in the count or weight of the fabric you have. Also, unauthorized use of photos is prohibited. I hope you have a fun Kogin time.