Knowing Fabrics and Threads 17 (Yarn-dyed Tsukiya New Congress)
※postscript
On June 16, 2025 (Pacific Daylight Time), we received a call from Tsukiya informing us that they would be adding " yarn-dyed " and also advising us that the name Hanamura may be better known in Tsugaru, so we have made corrections and additions as much as possible.
◆ Understanding Fabric and Thread 17 (Yarn-dyed New Congress)
This is the first material research blog in six months. This is the seventh photo of my fabric research, and I'm entering the cotton fabric category, starting with yarn-dyed New Congress . Yarn -dyed New Congress is a light fabric in the cotton fabric category. I remember thinking "It's like linen!" when I used it for the first time. It's been a while, so please check out the photo list of research fabrics.
*It rains a lot in Bellevue in winter, so the photos are dark. I plan to take better ones when I can.
*The letters in the fabric names and the numbers in the thread names have been assigned for convenience.
◆Yarn-dyed New Congress Basic Information
⚪︎Material: Cotton
⚪︎Number of stitches per 1cm² (vertical: horizontal) 7 stitches:8 stitches
Purchased from Hirosaki Tsukiya (known as Hanamura in Tsugaru)
⚪︎Purchase date: Around 2020-2021 (Noted taking into consideration the possibility of differences depending on the lot)
⚪️Please contact the store for product information such as available colors and prices.
(This is what the fabric looks like. It looks light.)
◆ Impressions of yarn-dyed New Congress (according to Satonobo)
⚪︎The weaving thread is not very prominent and moves ▶️It seems difficult to balance with thick threads or loosely twisted threads, but it seems to go well with smooth, tightly twisted threads and tight Kogin threads
⚪︎Transparent▶️The texture of the threads will be visible on the outside, so when stitching in parts, it is important to pay attention to the whole picture, including the threads, lining fabric, and adhesive interlining.
The photo below was taken with a macro lens. Compared to Olympus linen, there is a difference in the softness of the surface thread, but when you actually stitch with it, you can hardly feel any friction. The effect that the soft surface thread has on the smoothness of the Kogin thread also seems to be due to the difference in the materials, hemp and cotton.
It is easy to see the holes in the fabric, so it is recommended for beginners . However, as summarized above, if you stitch with loosely twisted threads that contain air, such as Olympus Kogin thread or Echizenya's Matalbon embroidery thread, the Kogin thread will not be crisp, so even if you twist the thread, the position of the thread may not be neat. I think you can make a work that makes use of that condition, but in terms of the stitching comfort, I personally recommend a tighter Kogin thread.
Also, because the yarn is thin, the needle doesn't split it, and the yarn moves, so I thought it was easy to thread. Also, because it's flexible, it was easy to thread.
◆Yarn recommended by Satonobo for those who want to try stitching with yarn-dyed New Congress again!
These are my impressions after using the same Kogin needles for all stitches. Please understand that my skill level may affect the appearance and impressions.
⚪︎1. Tsukiya Kogin Thread (8 strands)
Stitching comfort : The thread passes through smoothly
Appearance : Beautiful and highlights the strengths of Kogin thread
Impressions: Perfect feel and appearance.
⚪︎5. Tsugaru Kogin Thread by Tsugaru Kobosha
Stitching comfort : The strength of the twist matches the fabric, making it easy to handle.
Appearance : The elegance of Tsugaru Kogin yarn is combined with a casual feel.
Thoughts : I recommend it for both its feel and appearance.
⚪︎8. Handicraft Fan Hand-dyed Kogin Yarn
Stitching comfort : The smoothness of the thread is pleasant.
Appearance : The same texture as the casual yarn used by handicraft fans
Impressions : Here again I could feel the stability of Handicraft Fan's Kogin thread.
⚪︎Other thoughts
If you like Olympus linen, you'll probably like this fabric too. However, Olympus linen is characterized by the fineness of the weaving thread, and the thread felt thin with Tsukiya Nokogin thread (8 strands), so even though they are similar, I felt there were differences. (I feel that pre-dyed New Congress and Tsukiya Kogin thread (8 strands) go well together.)
It is flexible and easy to work with, so if you use a compatible thread, you will enjoy your sewing time even more. It is also recommended for pincushions and other projects that take advantage of the lightness and thinness of the fabric.
(I felt like I was being dominated by Matarubon.)
◆ A kit that can be enjoyed with yarn-dyed New Congress
▶️We don't have it at the moment, but we will let you know when it is available.
◆The next cloth will be the Kensen Congress
About the compatibility of fabric and thread
As mentioned in Getting to Know Fabric and Thread 3 , sensations vary from person to person, and naturally so do preferences. With regards to compatibility, I am writing this article with the intention of conveying that the feel of stitching differs depending on the combination of fabric and thread. One of the reasons for conducting this survey is that I feel it is a waste to distance yourself from fabrics and threads based on your first impression. The purpose of the survey is to learn about the positives, not the negatives.
Regarding the survey contents
This information is for those who enjoy Kogin embroidery on their own, and is based on research conducted by Satonobo using materials stored at his home. Please note that there may be discrepancies in the count and weight of the fabric you own depending on the storage environment. Also, unauthorized use of photos is prohibited. We hope you have a fun time with Kogin embroidery.
Satonobou