Understanding cloth and thread 11 (hemp 252)

◆Knowing cloth and thread 11 (hemp 252)
In the previous article, Learning about Cloths and Threads 10 , we looked at the differences between Hemp 252 and Fancy Hessian fabrics, along with photos taken with a macro lens that clearly show the surface of the weaving threads and fabrics. Is coarse cloth easy to sew? Is it hard to see through fine-grained cloth? Through this research, I hope to get a little closer to answers to various questions.
*Alphabets in the fabric name and numbers in the thread name are changed for convenience.

◆Hemp 252 basic information
⚪︎Material: 100% linen
⚪︎Number of stitches per 1㎠ Length: Width: 7:9 (visual measurement)
⚪︎Purchase store: Hobby Shop Tsukiya : Dote-cho, Hirosaki City⚪︎Purchase period: Around 2020 to 2022 (stated considering possible differences between lots)
⚪︎Please contact the store directly for product information such as available colors and prices.

(At a glance, the cloth looks like this.)

◆Impression of Hemp 252 (according to Satonobo investigation)
are fluffy fibers on the surface▶️When the thread passes through Koginzashi, it feels rough⚪︎The surface is soft▶️It gives the impression of a soft and gentle texture
⚪︎The weaving thread is difficult to move (does not shake)▶️It seems unlikely that the needle will break the weaving thread

The photo below is a comparison with the cotton cloth G. New Congress, which is also sold at Tsukiya . There may be differences in the characteristics of hemp and cotton fibers or the spinning process, but A. The variation in the thickness of the threads of Hemp 252 is interesting. From what I've researched so far, I think that the variation in the thickness of the weaving threads is similar to the difference between linen and cotton materials . Also, the shiny fibers on the surface seem to be a common feature of linen cloth.

If you zoom in, you can see that G. New Congress also has fibers, and just looking at them, don't they both have a rough texture? I think there are some people who think so. So, let's take a look at the photo below, where I removed the warp threads of the fabric one by one and loosened the ends.

(G. New Congress is cotton, A. Hemp 252 is linen)

Considering that the collection (characteristics) of woven threads is cloth , the length (long and thick) and amount of fibers attached to the woven threads of A. Hemp 252 and the length of fibers attached to the woven threads of G. New Congress. You can probably imagine the difference in the feel of the sting from the differences in length (shorter and thinner) and amount. In my experience, A. Hemp 252 gives the impression that the thread has more rough friction as it passes through the fabric, while G. New Congress feels smoother and has less friction.

◆I want to stab hemp 252 again! Recommended yarn from Satonobo
 These are my impressions when I pierced them all on the same day using the same kogin needle. Please understand that my skill level will affect the appearance and impressions before reading on.

⚪︎1.Tsukiya Kogin thread (8 threads combined)
Stitching feeling: The thread is rough, but the thread slides comfortably.
Appearance : The kogin thread is in good condition and the bulge is uniform.
Thoughts : I have always felt that Tsukiyakogin thread is of high quality, but after trying it on again, I thought it was wonderful and gave an elegant look to the rustic texture of the fabric.

⚪︎2. Olympus Kogin thread stitching comfort : Smooth and stress-free
Appearance : Used without pulling, and remains as fluffy as when opened.
Impressions : This is a sweet kogin thread that is recommended to be used together. If you use it in the bag, the fabric may unravel or the thickness may vary, but the air-containing threads will freely exhale and inhale air as they pass through the holes in the fabric. It seemed like it was maintaining its condition, and it was interesting to stab it.

⚪︎5.Tsugaru Kogin thread Stitching feeling : Smooth and comfortable (Similar to the feeling of Olympus Kogin thread)
Appearance : The threads are not unraveled, and the condition is almost unchanged and the bulge is uniform.
Impressions : Tsugaru Kogin thread has a smooth surface and feels smooth and soft in the hand, giving the impression that there is a moderate amount of air in the twist of the thread. I felt like I was successfully dodging it (though I don't know if it actually worked), and the sting felt nice.

⚪︎Other thoughts
 It was a fun discovery that the compatibility with the Olympus Kogin thread was better than I had imagined. Since the threads of the cloth do not move much, thicker kogin threads felt tight and difficult to thread through . Still, I think all the kogin threads and embroidery threads look beautiful in their own way.

◆Kit that can be enjoyed with hemp 252 ▶️Kogin sashimi kit to enjoy the season “Tora/Tora” linen cloth

◆Next fabric will be fancy hessian

There was also an interesting discovery.

▶️Materials research blog


◆About the compatibility of cloth and thread
As I touched on in Understanding Cloth and Thread 3 , sensibilities vary from person to person, and of course, preferences also vary from person to person. Regarding compatibility, I am writing this with the intention of conveying that the stitching comfort varies depending on the combination of cloth and thread . One of the reasons for conducting this survey is that I feel that it is a waste to distance yourself from a cloth or thread based on your first impression . The purpose of the survey is to learn about the positives, not the negatives .
The materials investigated this time are some of the materials known for kogin zashi, but I hope I can tell you that each cloth and thread has its own characteristics, and that these characteristics can become very attractive depending on the combination. That's what I think. If you devise a way to sew like this, this thread will be very easy to sew! It would be ideal if we could progress to that stage, but I would like to tackle that another time when I have the opportunity.
I am writing this blog by taking notes in my notebook, but I wanted to record it as much as possible while I still remember the feeling of the day of the survey. I think the blog updates will be irregular, but I would be happy if you could stop by again.

◆Regarding the survey content
This information is for those who enjoy Koginzashi on their own, and was researched by Satonobo using materials he kept at home. Please note that depending on the storage environment, there may be a discrepancy in the count or weight of the fabric you have. Also, unauthorized use of photos is prohibited. I hope you have a fun Kogin time.