Understanding cloth and thread 13 (Zweigart Cork)

◆Learning about cloth and thread 13 (Zweigart Coke)
Hello, this is the third piece of cloth research, and today I will be writing about Zweigart Coke, a German linen company. The Fancy Hessian in the previous article, Learning about Cloth and Thread 1 and 2 , was unique and interesting. The fabric this time is from ZWEIGART® in Germany. If you take a look at Echizenya's online shop (link introducing Zweigart embroidery fabrics), you will see that there is a wide variety of colors and counts. Zweigart is a textile company with a long history that began in 1877 (Japan's Meiji 10, around the time of the Satsuma Rebellion, and the UK's first Wimbledon Championships).
*Alphabets in the fabric name and numbers in the thread name are changed for convenience.

◆Zweigart Coak basic information
⚪︎Material Hemp

⚪︎Number of stitches per 1㎠: 8 stitches (20ct)
⚪︎Purchasing store Handicraft store
⚪︎Purchase period: Around 2020 to 2022 (described considering the possibility of differences depending on the lot)
⚪︎Please contact the retailer or manufacturer for product information such as available colors and prices.

(At a glance, the cloth looks like this.)

◆Impressions of Zweigart Coke (according to Satonobo research)
⚪︎There are few fibers on the surface, so it is shiny and smooth to the touch▶️The thread seems to pass through easily, making it suitable for creating works with an elegant atmosphere.
⚪︎The weaving thread has no height, and the holes in the fabric are small.▶️You need to be careful about the thickness of the thread, but it doesn't seem like the thread will get buried in the thread.

⚪︎There is no element that can cause the warp threads to break into thin pieces ▶️There seems to be less chance of breaking the weaving threads with the needle
⚪︎The weft thread is flat ▶︎If the kogin thread is thick, it will affect the next row, so thread selection is important.

The photo below was taken with a macro lens. As you can see, the warp and weft threads are different in thickness. Since the warp threads are thin and tight, they are easy to lift with the needle, making them suitable for needle movement. If you choose a thicker thread, you need to consider where the thread will be, as the weft is thicker and the weaving thread has no height. In other words, if the thread is too thick, the thread will protrude into the upper and lower tiers. I think you will also realize the importance of thread cutting.

Also, please take a look at the photo below to see how you won't have to worry about breaking the warp threads . The same Zweigart fabrics are linen (8 stitches/cm2) on the left and cotton (7.1 cm2) on the right. There doesn't seem to be any room for splitting the weaving thread with linen, especially when you consider that a kogin needle has a rounded tip, so it seems like it would be difficult no matter how hard you try.

(The difference between linen and cotton materials is also interesting.)

◆I want to try Zweigart Coke again! Satonobo's recommended yarn
 This is my impression of using the same kogin needle with needle movement. Please understand that my skill level will affect the appearance and impressions.

⚪︎2. Olimpas Kogin thread stitching comfort : Smooth and stress-free, easy to thread

Appearance : Used without pulling, still as fluffy as when opened.
Impressions : Olympas' Kogin thread also gives the impression that the thread itself is smooth, and both the fabric and thread were smooth, and the feeling of them sliding together was comfortable.

⚪︎5. Tsugaru Kogin thread from Tsugaru Kobosha
Stitching feeling : Smooth, with a good balance between thread thickness and fabric hole size.

Appearance : The first part is also plump, giving an elegant impression without destroying the texture of the thread.
Impressions : I think this fabric brings out the elegant and delicate impression of Tsugaru Kogin thread. I would love to try this combination again.

⚪︎8.Handwork fan hand-dyed kogin thread
Stitching feeling : Smooth and easy to thread
Appearance : The matte texture of the thread balances the elegance of the fabric, creating a cute and casual atmosphere.
Thoughts : I've always felt that the charm of Handwork Fan's Kogin thread is that it's easy to stitch into any fabric, and it goes perfectly with Coke.

⚪︎9.koginbank Kogin thread stitching comfort : The texture and thickness of the thread are well balanced for smooth stitching.
Appearance : The visible twist that is unique to koginbank's yarn is expressed as is, making it beautiful, cute, and impressive.
Impressions : The thread ran smoothly, the thickness was just right, and it didn't fall apart while stitching, so it was a comfortable combination.

⚪︎Other thoughts
 Because the weaving threads are flat, none of the threads sink into the weaving threads of the fabric, resulting in a fluffy finish. However, since the weft is thick, if the yarn is thick or bulky, it will try to find a place on the next tier, or it will get sloppy. If you like that atmosphere, I think you can actively use thick thread. Also, as a countermeasure, I thought that stretching the cloth vertically when threading would help the thread settle down better. I also thought that if the thickness was appropriate, the highly twisted yarn would settle into the fabric easily.

◆Kit you can enjoy with Zweigart Coke
▶️Not available at the moment, we will let you know once it is developed.

◆Next cloth is DARUMA Kogin cloth

It's a completely different impression from the previous three! looking forward to!

▶️Materials research blog


◆About the compatibility of cloth and thread
As I touched on in Understanding Cloth and Thread 3 , sensibilities vary from person to person, and of course, preferences also vary from person to person. Regarding compatibility, I am writing this with the intention of conveying that the stitching feeling varies depending on the combination of cloth and thread. One of the reasons for conducting this survey is that I feel that it is a waste to distance yourself from a cloth or thread based on your first impression. The purpose of the survey is to learn about the positives, not the negatives.

◆Regarding the survey content
This information is for those who enjoy Koginzashi on their own, and was researched by Satonobo using materials he kept at home. Please note that depending on the storage environment, there may be a discrepancy in the count or weight of the fabric you have. Also, unauthorized use of photos is prohibited. I hope you have a fun Kogin time.