Learning about cloth and thread 12 (Fancy Heshan)

◆Learn about cloth and thread 12 (Fancy Hesshan)
From the previous article, Learning about Fabrics and Threads 11, I finally started writing a blog about the characteristics of each fabric. I will write about Azabu in order, but this time I will write about Fancy Hessian .
Hessian means thick, coarse linen cloth . In addition, the word "fancy" in yarn refers to a yarn made by combining yarns of different types, colors, thicknesses, etc., and is used to describe the meaning of "design yarn" or "design twisted yarn". It seems that I have it. Fancy Hessian is a cloth woven from a combination of rayon and linen, so it makes sense.
*Alphabets in the fabric name and numbers in the thread name are changed for convenience.

◆Fancy Hesshan basic information
⚪︎Material Hemp (rayon blend)
⚪︎Number of stitches per 1㎠ Length: Width: 6:7 (visual measurement)
⚪︎Purchase store : Hobby Shop Tsukiya : Dote-cho, Hirosaki City ⚪︎Purchase period: Around 2018 to 2021 (stated considering possible differences between lots)
⚪︎Please contact the store directly for product information such as available colors and prices.

(At a glance, the cloth looks like this.)

◆Impression of Fancy Heshan (according to Satonobo research)
are fluffy fibers on the surface▶️When the thread passes through Koginzashi, it feels rough ⚪︎It feels thick and stiff▶️Rough and casual impression⚪︎The weaving thread has a height▶️When Koginzashi is used with thin thread Looks like it's going to be buried
⚪︎The weaving thread is thick and sturdy, making it difficult to move (doesn't shake)▶️It seems unlikely that the needle will break the weaving thread⚪︎Pilling will occur if it rubs▶️You will need to be creative in how you use it when making bags etc.

The photo below is a comparison with A. Hemp 252, which is also sold at Tsukiya , as I saw in Chapter 10 of Knowing Cloth and Thread . This is a zoomed photo taken from about the same distance, but the thickness of the Fancy Hessian threads stands out. It seems that the size of the holes in the cloth does not change much despite the difference in the fineness of the stitches.

◆I want to try stabbing Fancy Hessian again! Recommended yarn from Satonobo
 These are my impressions when I pierced them all on the same day using the same kogin needle. Please understand that my skill level will affect the appearance and impressions before reading on.

⚪︎2. Olympus Kogin thread stitching comfort : Smooth and stress-free
Appearance : Used without pulling, still as fluffy as when opened.
Impressions : The impression is similar to when it is embroidered on hemp 252 , and it feels like a collection of air-containing threads maintains its state by freely exhaling and inhaling air as it passes through the holes in the cloth. , It was fun to poke around.

⚪︎4.Tsukiya Kogin thread (10 pieces)
Stitching comfort : The thread feels heavy when pulled, but the size of the hole in the fabric and the thickness of the thread are perfect.
Appearance : Not too thin or too thick, with a good balance between the visibility of the fabric and thread.
Impressions : I have the impression that the friction is strong, and threading requires some ingenuity, but the strength of the friction is a comfortable weight, and I felt it was worth trying.

⚪︎9.koginbank Kogin thread stitching comfort : Smooth but threading is a little difficult
Appearance : Koginbank's threads are made of 4 strands, and the threads themselves are tall, while Fancy Hesshan's weaving threads are thicker, so the characters of the materials are well balanced.
Impressions : I felt that the kogin thread was uneven at the part where the tiers changed and threading was difficult, but the thread passed smoothly and was comfortable. I also felt that they were a good match because the first glance part was not buried.

⚪︎Other thoughts
 Because the weaving thread is thick and difficult to move, I felt that when the kogin thread passed through it, it would go to the top of the step and the place where it would settle down would not be stable. It would be a good idea to adjust this with a threader, but the threader also requires some ingenuity. You may want to pull the thread gently. Also, because the weaving threads are tall (thick cloth), the sweetly twisted olympas and the embroidery thread matalbon gave a plump and cute impression, which was interesting.

◆A kit that you can enjoy with Fancy Hessian ▶️There is no kit available at the moment, so we will let you know once it is developed.

◆Next fabric will be Zweigart Cork

I'm going to find out!

▶️Materials research blog


◆About the compatibility of cloth and thread
As I touched on in Understanding Cloth and Thread 3 , sensibilities vary from person to person, and of course, preferences also vary from person to person. Regarding compatibility, I am writing this with the intention of conveying that the stitching comfort varies depending on the combination of cloth and thread. One of the reasons for conducting this survey is that I feel that it is a waste to distance yourself from a cloth or thread based on your first impression. The purpose of the survey is to learn about the positives, not the negatives.

◆Regarding the survey content
This information is for those who enjoy Koginzashi on their own, and was researched by Satonobo using materials he kept at home. Please note that depending on the storage environment, there may be a discrepancy in the count or weight of the fabric you have. Also, unauthorized use of photos is prohibited. I hope you have a fun Kogin time.

◆Reference <br>Research Navi, “Encyclopedia of Textile Products”, https://rnavi.ndl.go.jp/mokuji_html/027477290.html, (July 1, 2023)