Understanding Cloth and Thread 20 (Lucian Congress)

◆Learning about cloth and thread 20 (Lucian Congress)
The previous Zweigart Davosa had a distinctive woven thread and was a flat cloth similar to the same manufacturer's linen cork . It is a cloth that goes well with most kogin threads and embroidery threads, but the warp threads are easy to split, so I felt it was more of a cloth for experienced users.
Today's Lucian Congress is made in Japan, but it is an easy-to-handle fabric that beginners should use.

◆Lucian Congress basic information
⚪︎Material Cotton

⚪︎Number of stitches per 1㎠ (vertical: horizontal) 7 stitches: 7 stitches
⚪︎Purchasing store Online shop, etc.
⚪︎Purchase date: Around 2022-2023 (described considering the possibility of differences depending on the lot)
⚪︎Please contact the manufacturer or store for product information such as available colors and prices.

(It's crispy.)

◆Impressions of Lucian Congress (according to Satonobo research)
⚪︎Thick ▶️The fabric is hard to warp even when embroidered with kogin embroidery ⚪︎The weaving thread is glossy and slippery ▶️Easy to thread the needle and thread ⚪︎The warp threads are clumped together and difficult to split ▶️Easy to embed even when moving the needle one by one ⚪︎The glue many? The fabric is stiff ▶️ Soft threads and threads with a loose twist lack flexibility ⚪︎ The warp threads are difficult to move ▶️ Because the threads are held down, loose threads tend to unravel when pulled out

If you look at the photo below, you can see that the fabric of Lucian's Congress has difficulty shrinking vertically even when embroidered with kogin embroidery (I think the thread used also has an effect). It would be nice to be able to select materials by taking into consideration not only the processing details but also whether to embroid partially or completely .
 From the perspective of the fluctuation of the threads of cloth, I noticed that there are two types : (1) Cloths that are completed by threading the Kogin threads , and (2) Cloths that are completed before the Kogin threads are threaded . You can control the shrinkage in the horizontal direction to some extent by choosing threads of appropriate thickness and carefully threading, so it's a good idea to continue threading the thread over time.

I would like to understand the deformation of cloth myself, so I will report on it again on my blog.

◆I want to try Lucien Congress again! Recommended yarn from Satonobo
 This is my impression of using the same kogin needle with needle movement. Please understand that my skill level will affect the appearance and impressions.

⚪︎4. Tsukiya Kogin thread (10 pieces)
Stab feeling : Just the right thickness and twist strength
Appearance : dignified
Impressions : You can enjoy it with peace of mind

⚪︎5. Tsugaru Kobosha Kogin thread
Stab feeling : smooth
Appearance : The shading of the thread is clear.
Impressions : Perfect stabbing feeling

⚪︎6. 1chi® Kogin thread
Stitching comfort : The friction when pulling the thread is comfortable and smooth.
Appearance : plump
Impressions : The presence of the thread is good in both hands and eyes.

⚪︎8. Handwork fan hand-dyed kogin thread
Stitching comfort : The thread slides comfortably
Appearance : Not too cramped, plump and beautiful
Impressions : No complaints

⚪︎Other thoughts
The fabric is sturdy and the threads don't move much and are restrained, so I thought it would go well with threads that have a strong twist (threads that are tightly twisted) . The fabric has tension and the grain is easy to see, so even beginners can enjoy it with confidence.

The photo below is an enlarged photo of the fabric, and you can see that Kensen's Congress goes well with yarns with a sweet twist, and Lucien's Congress goes well with yarns with a strong twist . If you already have kogin thread and are having trouble deciding which kogin cloth to buy, I hope you find this helpful.
After looking at a lot of fabrics, I have come to imagine that tightly woven threads are more susceptible to friction when the kogin thread passes through them. I'll study this a little more.

Kit that can be enjoyed at Lucian Congress
I will introduce it once it is developed.

◆Next fabric will be perry pull

▶️Materials research blog


◆About the compatibility of cloth and thread
As I touched on in Understanding Cloth and Thread 3 , sensibilities vary from person to person, and of course, preferences also vary from person to person. Regarding compatibility, I am writing this with the intention of conveying that the stitching comfort varies depending on the combination of cloth and thread. One of the reasons for conducting this survey is that I feel that it is a waste to distance yourself from a cloth or thread based on your first impression. The purpose of the survey is to learn about the positives, not the negatives.

◆Regarding the survey content
This information is for those who enjoy Koginzashi on their own, and was researched by Satonobo using materials he kept at home. Please note that depending on the storage environment, there may be a discrepancy in the count or weight of the fabric you have. Also, unauthorized use of photos is prohibited. I hope you have a fun Kogin time.

*Alphabets in the fabric name and numbers in the thread name are changed for convenience.